How To Get The Perfect Eyebrow With Microblading

by Suzanne M Munshower R.N.

A Microblading Technician Applies Individual 3D Hair Strokes with a Hand Tool Dipped in Ink

   ​If you’re reading this article, chances are that you already know how important eyebrows are to your face.  Brows can be the rise or fall of your first impression.  Those little patches of delicate hair can complete your red carpet knockout look, show your age, or in some unfortunate cases elicit bewildered stares.  Knowing this, more than 86 million Americans picked up an eyebrow pencil in 2016.  The total number of brownista’s is even higher when you look at purchasing data for all of the available eyebrow makeup products and services.

   Enter Microblading, permanent makeup’s (aka permanent cosmetics) hot new cousin which is really a modern take on an ancient European tattooing method, adapted by Asians as “feathering” and now exploding across the United States.  When done properly, the final result will give the appearance of realistic 3D hairstrokes that remain in place and sends those brow pencils to the bottom of your makeup bag.  Women are the primary consumers of this service as they’re keenly aware of the aesthetic and time saving benefits but both men and women can show signs of aging due to thinning brows.  Yes, men are interested in this too as they’re starting to realize Microblading can give them an edge during the job interview process or when posting a profile pic.
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   Microblading is a form of cosmetic tattooing that employs tools and techniques unique to the process.  No buzzing machine, rather the pigments are delivered via a hand tool with several micro-sized blades, hence the name.  Typically two appointments are required with the design process and majority of the hair strokes applied at the first appointment.  Visit number two comes approximately six weeks later and is meant for touchups.  Skilled microblade technicians will be conservative during the initial visit, knowing, for instance, that you don’t cross hair strokes before the first one is healed.  The ink is iron oxide based and significantly different from what you’d find in your average tattoo parlor.  Despite what the name, “permanent makeup” may suggest, it does wear off over time.  Specifically, Microblading lasts six to eighteen months.  However, for some women who aren’t educated brow shoppers, the seeming eternity of waiting for a bad brow to fade feels longer than permanent.
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   So let’s talk about the two most important factors that will let you roll out of bed, complete a workout, or swim up to the pool bar with brows that will make all of your girlfriends jealous: choosing the right technician and nailing the design.

   The natural first step is researching & selecting the right business. Google and various review sites will yield a list to start with.  Here are some key tips of what of what to look for and what to avoid in a provider.  Cover these bases before you discuss cost, or else you will get exactly what you pay for.  If they aren’t comfortable discussing any of this with you, move on.

• EDUCATION: Fundamentals are key and with Microblading that means the best technician will have started out and/or be trained in traditional permanent cosmetics.  Microblading is the most difficult permanent cosmetic technique to achieve a mastery of.  If they have perfected the other varied permanent makeup techniques (brows, eyeliner, lips, scar camouflage, areola, etc), odds are greater that they’ve had ample training in shape, color theory and corrective technique.  Without that training, you could end up with brows that are ashy or too dark or a technician doubling down on bad shaping during the touch-up, instead of removing the error.  With the sudden popularity of Microblading, two-day courses are popping up all over.  These crash courses often require no prerequisites and are sending inadequately trained Microblader’s into the field.  Whereas there is no singular accrediting body for this kind of work, there are reputable trade organizations that can steer an aspiring practitioner towards quality training centers.  After training should come an apprenticeship with a strong mentor.
  
• EXPERIENCE:  It counts of course.  Look at their before & after photos; they should include all different brow shapes, ages, ethnicities, women and men.  You’ll want to make sure they can suit your eyebrows to your personal style and not produce a cookie cutter brow (see Teamwork below).  Experience should be combined with continuing education.  The industry is constantly developing new alternatives; ask how the practitioner is staying out in front.
  
• COMFORT: The number one question your friends will ask is, “Did it hurt?”  The answer should not be an emphatic yes.  For starters, a topical anesthetic should be applied thirty minutes before the work begins.  This is where your tolerance for pain may narrow your search.  Lower your apprehension by looking for medical practices that offer microblading (obviously all of the other qualifying rules still apply).  These can often be found in the form of Medical Spas, Dermatological or Plastic Surgeons’ offices.  Unlike salons or parlors, these groups will have legal access to stronger topical numbing agents and medical staff may even offer pain blocking shots such as lidocaine.  “Nope, I felt fine!”, should be the reply you hear.
  
• TEAMWORK: A good microblader will make you happy; a great microblading team will make you ecstatic!  That’s right, two heads are often better than one.  Microblade technicians who work together tend to share more tips and tricks, bring back new techniques learned during webinars or conferences to their teams and help a provider avoid putting out a cookie cutter look that can occur when working solo, in a bubble.
  
• ​LICENSING: What may seem obvious, really may not be, depending on where you live.  From state to state, the laws governing this work may vary.  For example, the state of Oklahoma has passed legislation that governs who may enter this field and rules for practicing.  Absent of legislation, permanent makeup is often lumped in with tattooing.  Some states, such as Pennsylvania, do not even have state level rules crafted for tattooing; at best the local city/municipality may have some regulations on their books.  Adherence to other governing boards may be an indicator of compliance however, for instance, many state boards of cosmetology do not regulate permanent makeup and therefore do not permit it to be performed in a salon’s official zoned space. If you’re considering a salon for microblading and they have not submitted a special floorplan to the state showing an enclosed room that is exempt from cosmetology work, what other corners are they cutting?  If the environment is not set up correctly and they’re not appropriately trained in sterile technique or handling bloodborne pathogens, you are not safe!  Ask the practitioner about their licensing; regardless of how complex their regulating bodies make it, an informed business will be able to inform you of what is required and how they’ve taken steps to be compliant.
  

   You’ve done your research, confirmed your appointment and it's the big day.  You may have had a previous in-person consultation (if you’re highly allergic this is also a good time to do a scratch test), or the consult may continue into the design phase. A reputable shop will take and review your history, educate you on the post-care process and obtain a signed consent.  The numbing agent is applied and now comes what should be the longest portion of your two appointments combined - the design phase. The brow shape will be drawn on in an iterative process that should continue until you’re satisfied with what you see in the mirror.  The technician should walk you through everything, including how they’re going to incorporate your existing brow hair.  Do not be afraid to walk away if you aren’t one hundred percent happy at this point.  Microblading courses will provide templates and measuring tools but Microblading is an art.  The better the artist, the better the brow.

   You’re now educated on how to seek out great Microblading results.  Follow these tips and you’ll love the way your new brows frame your face or make you feel younger.  “Wake Up With Makeup!” is what the team at Beauty Marx Aesthetic MedSpa encourages and this will help you get there!

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-Click here to see before & after's, a video and learn more about microblading and permanent makeup at Beauty Marx Aesthetic MedSpa

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